Best Gym Climbing Shoes: Top 5 Performance Showdown
Are you tired of searching for the perfect climbing shoe for your indoor gym sessions? I’ve got you covered. I decided to put the top 5 gym climbing shoes to the test to uncover which ones truly shine in performance, comfort, grip, and durability. Whether you’re a beginner tackling your first wall or an advanced climber seeking precision, this showdown will help you make the ultimate choice.
Let’s get started with a clear breakdown of our testing criteria and results.
1. Testing Criteria
When evaluating the best gym climbing shoes, having a clear and detailed set of criteria is essential. Climbing shoes must meet specific needs to ensure you perform your best on the wall, whether you’re a beginner or an advanced climber. Here’s how I assessed the contenders:
Grip
Grip is arguably the most critical factor for climbing shoes. It determines how well your shoes stick to the holds and how confidently you can move on the wall.
- Rubber Quality:
I looked closely at the rubber compound used in each shoe. Softer rubbers typically offer better grip on smooth gym holds but may wear down faster. Firmer rubbers can be more durable, especially for edging, but might sacrifice stickiness. - Performance on Different Walls:
Each shoe was tested on both vertical walls and overhangs. Vertical walls demand reliable grip for stability, while overhangs challenge the shoe’s ability to cling to minimal footholds. - Surface Versatility:
Since gym holds can vary in texture and size, I noted how well each shoe performed across a range of surfaces, from flat footholds to textured smears.
Fit and Comfort
Climbing shoes must strike a balance between being snug and comfortable. A poor fit can ruin your climbing experience, while too much comfort can compromise performance.
- Snug Fit Without Pain:
I focused on how well each shoe fit right out of the box and how it adapted after breaking in. A good climbing shoe should feel secure but not painfully tight. - Prolonged Use:
Gym climbers often wear their shoes for extended periods. I assessed how comfortable each shoe remained after an hour of climbing, considering factors like toe box pressure and heel tension. - Adjustability:
Features like Velcro straps, lace-ups, or slipper-style closures played a role in determining how easily the shoe could adapt to different foot shapes.
Edging Performance
Precision is essential for climbing, especially when working on small or tricky footholds. Edging performance measures how well the shoe allows you to stand on tiny holds with confidence.
- Stiffness of the Sole:
Stiffer soles tend to provide better support for edging, making it easier to maintain balance on small holds. However, they may lack flexibility for smearing. - Shape and Aggressiveness:
Downturned shoes with pointed toes typically excel in edging, especially on steep routes. Neutral shoes, while less aggressive, can still perform well for general gym climbing. - Consistency Across Routes:
I evaluated how reliable each shoe was in maintaining precision during various climbing scenarios, from beginner-friendly routes to advanced problems.
Durability
Durability ensures that your investment in climbing shoes pays off over time. Gym climbing is particularly harsh on shoes due to frequent use and abrasive holds.
- Rubber Wear:
I observed how the rubber held up after weeks of testing. Shoes with softer rubber tend to wear faster but can be worth it for the grip. - Material Longevity:
The upper material (e.g., leather or synthetic) was assessed for its ability to withstand stretching, cracking, or tearing. - Resole Potential:
Some shoes are easier to resole than others, extending their lifespan significantly. I factored this into the overall durability rating.
2. The Contenders: Top 5 Gym Climbing Shoes
After extensive testing, these five models emerged as top picks for indoor climbing:
Let’s dive deeper into their individual performance.
La Sportiva Tarantulace
Grip:
The La Sportiva Tarantulace excels on vertical walls, thanks to its FriXion RS rubber sole. The rubber offers a solid balance of grip and durability, making it ideal for beginner and intermediate routes. However, on steep overhangs with small footholds, it struggled to maintain the same level of stickiness.
Fit and Comfort
With its unlined leather upper, the Tarantulace molds to your foot over time, providing a snug and personalized fit. This stretchability makes it comfortable for gym climbers who value versatility and don’t need an aggressive shape. The lace-up design allows for fine-tuning the fit, accommodating a variety of foot shapes.
Edging Performance
While adequate for general climbing, the Tarantulace isn’t designed for high-level precision. Its slightly rounded toe and neutral profile work well for smearing and flat footholds but lack the aggressiveness needed for advanced edging tasks on small holds.
Durability
This shoe scores high in durability. The FriXion RS rubber is built to last, and the leather upper resists wear over time. Even after extensive use, the rubber showed minimal signs of thinning, making it a reliable choice for frequent gym sessions.
Scarpa Veloce
Grip
The Scarpa Veloce excels in providing reliable grip, thanks to its S-72 rubber. This unique rubber compound is specifically designed for gym climbing, offering an excellent balance between stickiness and versatility. On vertical walls, the rubber adheres well to smooth surfaces and textured holds, ensuring climbers feel confident on every step. On overhung routes, the shoe performs exceptionally, maintaining consistent traction even on small or sloping footholds. However, climbers seeking ultra-aggressive stickiness might find slightly less grip compared to shoes with softer rubbers like the Five Ten Hiangle.
Fit and Comfort
Scarpa prioritized comfort when designing the Veloce. It features a wider toe box, making it ideal for climbers with broader feet or those who dislike the cramped feeling of traditional climbing shoes. The soft, flexible upper material and slipper-style design provide a comfortable fit straight out of the box. The shoe’s padded construction reduces pressure on the toes, making it perfect for long gym sessions where climbers might spend hours testing different routes. Unlike many performance shoes, which require a break-in period, the Veloce feels great from day one.
Edging Performance
The Veloce strikes an impressive balance between comfort and edging capability. While it isn’t as aggressive as shoes designed for steep overhangs, it still supports precise foot placement on small holds. The semi-flexible midsole provides enough stiffness for edging without compromising the comfort needed for smearing and general gym climbing. This versatility makes it a solid choice for climbers looking for an all-rounder shoe for indoor use.
Durability
One area where the Scarpa Veloce shows limitations is durability. The softer S-72 rubber, while excellent for grip, tends to wear out more quickly than firmer compounds. This means that frequent climbers may notice thinning rubber or wear in high-friction areas sooner than expected. However, the shoe’s overall construction, including the synthetic upper, holds up well with moderate use. Resoling is also an option for those who want to extend the shoe’s lifespan.
Verdict: The Scarpa Veloce is perfect for climbers who prioritize comfort and versatility. It’s especially suited for beginners or intermediate gym climbers who want reliable performance without sacrificing all-day comfort.
Five Ten Hiangle
Grip
The Five Ten Hiangle sets a high standard for grip with its Stealth C4 rubber. This legendary rubber compound is known for its incredible stickiness and durability. In testing, the Hiangle consistently performed well across various surfaces, from flat footholds to tiny chips on overhung walls. Climbers tackling technical routes will appreciate how effortlessly the shoe grips smooth holds and challenging smears. Its versatility makes it one of the most reliable options for gym climbers seeking top-notch grip.
Fit and Comfort
Though designed with an aggressive profile, the Hiangle manages to remain surprisingly comfortable after breaking in. The snug fit ensures precision and control, while the unlined leather upper stretches slightly to conform to the foot’s shape. This adaptability reduces pressure points, making the shoe suitable for longer gym sessions. Climbers with narrow or average-width feet will find the fit particularly appealing. The single Velcro strap allows for easy adjustments, striking a good balance between security and convenience.
Edging Performance
Edging is where the Hiangle truly shines. Its downturned profile and stiff toe box provide unparalleled precision on small footholds. The shoe’s aggressive shape directs power to the toes, enabling climbers to maintain balance and control on even the tiniest edges. Advanced climbers working on technical problems or steep overhangs will find the Hiangle indispensable for its ability to deliver consistent performance when it matters most.
Durability
The Hiangle’s durability is impressive, especially considering the soft nature of the Stealth C4 rubber. While some wear is inevitable with regular use, the shoe’s high-quality construction ensures it holds up well over time. The rubber maintains its grip even as it thins, and the leather upper resists stretching too much, preserving the shoe’s performance capabilities. For climbers who spend significant time in the gym, this shoe offers a solid balance of longevity and functionality.
Verdict: The Five Ten Hiangle is the go-to shoe for advanced climbers seeking precision, grip, and control for tough gym routes. Its aggressive design makes it ideal for challenging overhangs and technical problems, while still offering enough comfort for extended sessions.
Evolv Defy
Grip
The Evolv Defy is equipped with Trax rubber, a solid performer on vertical walls and moderate routes. This rubber provides dependable traction on smooth gym holds and textured surfaces, making it a great choice for beginner and recreational climbers. However, when tested on steep, overhung problems, the Defy showed limitations. The rubber lacked the tackiness required to hold small footholds or sloping features confidently. This makes the shoe less suited for climbers tackling advanced routes with challenging overhangs.
Fit and Comfort
Comfort is the standout feature of the Evolv Defy. Straight out of the box, the shoe feels plush and accommodating, thanks to its padded tongue and synthetic upper. Unlike many climbing shoes that require a break-in period, the Defy is ready for action immediately. The soft lining and slightly roomier fit make it a popular choice for climbers with wider feet or those who value comfort over aggressive performance. The Velcro straps allow for easy adjustments, ensuring the shoe fits snugly without pinching or creating pressure points.
Edging Performance
While the Evolv Defy isn’t designed for precision edging, it performs adequately for general gym climbing. The neutral profile and slightly flexible sole provide enough support for standing on medium footholds and smearing on flat surfaces. However, climbers seeking sharp, aggressive edging capabilities for technical routes may find this shoe lacking. Its focus is on comfort and versatility rather than high-level precision.
Durability
The Defy’s Trax rubber and synthetic upper held up well during extended testing. While the rubber isn’t the thickest or most durable on the market, it showed consistent performance over time with minimal wear in high-friction areas. The stitching remained intact, and the upper material resisted stretching or tearing, making this shoe a reliable option for regular gym use. However, heavy use on rough surfaces may shorten its lifespan compared to more robust climbing shoes.
Verdict: The Evolv Defy is perfect for beginner or casual climbers who value immediate comfort and reliable performance for general gym climbs. While it lacks the aggressive features needed for advanced routes, it excels as an affordable, beginner-friendly option.
Black Diamond Momentum
Grip
The Black Diamond Momentum features NeoFriction rubber, a material that delivers consistent grip on standard gym surfaces. While it doesn’t match the stickiness of premium rubbers like Stealth C4 or Scarpa’s S-72, it performs reliably on vertical walls and low-grade routes. For beginner climbers practicing technique, this level of grip is sufficient. However, the Momentum struggles on more advanced problems that require exceptional traction on overhangs or small footholds.
Fit and Comfort
Comfort is where the Momentum truly shines. The breathable knit upper is designed to keep your feet cool during long sessions, making it one of the most comfortable options among the best gym climbing shoes. The flat profile and neutral shape provide a relaxed fit, ideal for beginners or climbers who prioritize comfort over aggressive performance. The Velcro closure system ensures a secure fit and allows for quick adjustments during climbs. Unlike more aggressive shoes, the Momentum doesn’t force your toes into an uncomfortable curled position, making it great for all-day wear.
Edging Performance
Edging is not the Momentum’s strongest suit. Its flat profile and relatively flexible sole limit its ability to provide the precision needed for small footholds or technical climbing. This makes the shoe more suitable for smearing and standing on larger holds. Beginner climbers focusing on balance and movement will find the Momentum adequate, but those progressing to more advanced routes may require a shoe with a stiffer toe box and downturned shape for improved edging.
Durability
The lightweight materials used in the Momentum contribute to its comfort but come with a tradeoff in durability. Over time, the NeoFriction rubber showed signs of wear, particularly in areas exposed to frequent friction. The knit upper, while breathable, may be less resistant to abrasions compared to leather or synthetic alternatives. This makes the Momentum a better choice for casual climbers or those who climb less frequently. For heavy gym use, consider rotating it with a more durable option.
Verdict: The Black Diamond Momentum is an excellent entry-level shoe for climbers who value comfort and breathability. While it isn’t designed for advanced technical routes, it provides reliable performance for beginners honing their skills on low-grade climbs.
3. Performance Comparison Chart: The Top 5 Best Gym Climbing Shoes
Understanding how each shoe performs in key areas can make your decision easier. This chart summarizes the results from testing five standout models, evaluating them on grip, comfort, edging, and durability. Let’s take a deeper look at what the ratings mean and how each shoe performed in these categories.
| Shoe | Grip | Comfort | Edging | Durability |
| La Sportiva Tarantulace | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Scarpa Veloce | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐ |
| Five Ten Hiangle | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Evolv Defy | ⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Black Diamond Momentum | ⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐ |
Grip
- La Sportiva Tarantulace: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Offers reliable traction on standard gym holds, with solid performance on vertical walls. It falls short on challenging overhangs requiring extra stickiness. - Scarpa Veloce: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
The S-72 rubber provides unmatched grip, excelling on textured and smooth surfaces alike. It’s a top choice for steep gym routes. - Five Ten Hiangle: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Equipped with Stealth C4 rubber, this shoe grips like no other. It handles small footholds and slick surfaces with ease. - Evolv Defy: ⭐⭐⭐
Trax rubber ensures decent grip for beginner-friendly climbs but lacks the tackiness needed for advanced problems. - Black Diamond Momentum: ⭐⭐⭐
NeoFriction rubber provides consistent but average grip, making it sufficient for lower-grade gym climbs.
Comfort
- La Sportiva Tarantulace: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
The leather upper molds to your foot over time, providing a snug fit without compromising comfort. - Scarpa Veloce: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Its wider toe box and soft upper make it one of the most comfortable gym climbing shoes, especially for all-day sessions. - Five Ten Hiangle: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Despite its aggressive profile, the shoe becomes comfortable after breaking in, offering a balance of precision and wearability. - Evolv Defy: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Designed with comfort in mind, the padded tongue and synthetic upper ensure a plush fit straight out of the box. - Black Diamond Momentum: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
The breathable knit upper and flat profile make this shoe a standout for comfort during extended climbs.
Edging
- La Sportiva Tarantulace: ⭐⭐⭐
Suitable for general climbing, though its neutral profile limits precision on small footholds. - Scarpa Veloce: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Balances comfort and edging performance, offering decent support for technical climbs without feeling overly stiff. - Five Ten Hiangle: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Its downturned shape and stiff toe box make it an exceptional choice for precise edging on tiny footholds. - Evolv Defy: ⭐⭐⭐
Works well for smearing and larger footholds but lacks the aggressive edge needed for advanced routes. - Black Diamond Momentum: ⭐⭐⭐
A flat profile limits its ability to edge precisely, making it more suited for smearing and standing on larger holds.
Durability
- La Sportiva Tarantulace: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
The FriXion rubber and leather upper hold up well under regular use, making it a long-lasting option. - Scarpa Veloce: ⭐⭐⭐
While the upper is durable, the softer rubber wears down faster with heavy use, especially on abrasive holds. - Five Ten Hiangle: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Its Stealth C4 rubber and leather construction ensure solid durability despite regular gym use. - Evolv Defy: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
The Trax rubber and synthetic upper resist wear effectively, offering good longevity for beginner and intermediate climbers. - Black Diamond Momentum: ⭐⭐⭐
The lightweight knit upper is less durable than synthetic or leather options, and the rubber shows quicker wear with frequent use.
4. Final Recommendation: Which Shoe Should You Choose?
Choosing the best gym climbing shoes depends on your climbing level, style, and priorities. Here’s a breakdown to help you decide:
Best Overall: Five Ten Hiangle
The Five Ten Hiangle stands out as the top pick for intermediate and advanced climbers. Its exceptional grip, precise edging capabilities, and durable materials make it a powerhouse for challenging gym routes. If you’re tackling overhangs and technical problems, this shoe won’t disappoint.
Best for Beginners: La Sportiva Tarantulace and Evolv Defy
- La Sportiva Tarantulace:
This shoe offers a versatile and comfortable fit, making it ideal for climbers just starting their journey. Its durability ensures it can handle frequent gym sessions. - Evolv Defy:
Known for its plush comfort, this shoe is perfect for recreational climbers who want immediate wearability without a break-in period. It’s a budget-friendly option that doesn’t sacrifice performance.
Best for Long Sessions: Scarpa Veloce and Black Diamond Momentum
- Scarpa Veloce:
For all-day comfort with a touch of performance, the Veloce delivers. It’s perfect for climbers who prioritize soft, supportive footwear without compromising on edging. - Black Diamond Momentum:
If breathability and comfort are your top concerns, the Momentum is your go-to choice. Its lightweight design and relaxed fit make it an excellent pick for casual climbers or those focusing on technique.
5. Conclusion
Choosing the best gym climbing shoe depends on your climbing style, experience, and budget. From the precision of the Five Ten Hiangle to the comfort of the Scarpa Veloce, this showdown highlights the strengths of each shoe so you can pick the right one for your indoor adventures.
So, what’s your go-to climbing shoe? Let me know which one you’ll try on your next climb!
6. FAQs
- How should gym climbing shoes fit?
Your shoes should feel snug but not painfully tight, with no dead space in the toe box. - Are aggressive climbing shoes good for the gym?
Aggressive shoes are great for steep overhangs, but for general gym climbing, comfort-focused shoes often work better. - How long do gym climbing shoes last?
With regular use, climbing shoes typically last 6–12 months, depending on the rubber and material quality. - Can I use outdoor shoes in the gym?
Yes, but gym climbing can wear down shoes faster, so consider using a separate pair for indoor sessions. - What’s the best budget climbing shoe?
The La Sportiva Tarantulace and Evolv Defy offer great performance without breaking the bank.
